The Oval Cut Diamond Guide
ReadAn elegant and timeless cut, the oval cut diamond is as at-home in a chunky, modern engagement ring as in its vintage-inspired counterpart.
In this buying guide we cover the anatomy of this versatile diamond, why it offers an interesting alternative to the classic round diamond and how to avoid the much-discussed ‘bow tie’ effect.
WHAT IS AN OVAL CUT?
An oval cut diamond can be identified by its elongated round shape, typically cut in the brilliant faceting style whereby 57 or 58 facets are cut around the diamond for maximum fire and sparkle.
Tracing its history back to 1304, when the 105.60ct oval Koh-I-Noor diamond first appeared, the modern oval cut diamond began its evolution with the introduction of brilliant faceting in the 1700’s and the cut has grown in popularity since.
WHY CHOOSE AN OVAL CUT?
Oval cut diamonds benefit from proportions that elongate the finger, in the same way an emerald cut diamond would, whilst retaining the same enticing sparkle of a round brilliant cut.
Comparatively, they’ll also appear larger than a round brilliant cut of the same carat weight due to their length and surface area.
WHAT SHOULD I LOOK OUT FOR?
Symmetry is key in the anatomy of an oval, and the two halves of the diamond on both a vertical and horizontal axis should match. Symmetry will be graded in the report of your diamond, and unless you’re buying an antique or particularly unusual stone we wouldn’t recommend going any lower than a ‘very good’ grading.
Fancy cuts - the name for anything other than a round brilliant - have their own unique grading system.
WHAT SIZE IS A 1CT OVAL CUT?
As carat is a measurement of weight, the size of a diamond in mm will vary depending on the spread of the stone. However, you can expect an averagely proportioned 1ct oval cut diamond to measure 7.7x5.7mm, and 2ct to measure 9x7mm.
THE BOW TIE EFFECT
The ‘bow tie effect’ is one of the first things you’ll find in an online search for oval cut diamonds. The phenomenon occurs when light diffuses to create a shadow across the middle of the stone, and while it’s advisable to seek a stone with a minimal bow tie, stones with no bow tie at all can sometime be dull.
A diamond’s bow tie would appear in the coloured area marked on the diagram, and particularly bad bow ties can extend the full width of the stone. It would be visible in pictures and videos of the diamond, so we always recommend you see one before making your purchase.
WHAT SETTING STYLES WORK BEST?
Oval cuts are very versatile as there are no corners to consider protecting, so it’s really about personal style. Four claws are most traditional, but we’ve created bespoke oval cut engagement rings with double claws, striking rubover settings or six claws for a more unique silhouette.
SHOULD I CHOOSE AN OVAL CUT?
Given that oval cut diamonds appear greater in size than their round diamond carat weight counterpart, and still have the incredible sparkle of a round diamond that we know and love, it’s easy to see why oval cut diamonds have been consistently popular with our clients.
