Natural vs Lab-Grown Diamonds: An Introduction

Across molecular, chemical and optical levels, natural and lab-grown diamonds are identical. So identical in fact that even expert jewellers can't tell them apart by eye; doing so requiring special spectroscopic equipment to detect trace elements – such as nitrogen – that would only be found in natural diamonds. What really sets these precious stones apart is the point of their conception.

Natural diamonds were formed deep in the earth’s mantle, where carbon atoms become crystallised under immense pressure and extreme heat over the course of one to three billion years, with the precious stones eventually carried to the surface by volcanic eruptions. On the other hand, lab-grown diamonds are created in controlled laboratory conditions in just a matter of weeks, using advanced technology that replicates this natural environment.

Once formed, they are then mined (natural) or removed from their chamber (lab-grown) as a rough diamond, and sent to be mapped and cut by highly-killed diamond cutters. While virtually all diamonds today are cut with a combination of advanced CAD (Computer-Aided Design), 3D scanners and lasers, most are almost always inspected by hand for final touches and grading.

Across the board, lab-grown diamonds are the more affordable option when compared to their natural counterparts, with this pricing disparity becoming more apparent as you move into higher carat weights. You'll notice the difference most amongst larger diamonds (typically 2ct and upwards) – which are becoming increasingly rare – with their lab-grown counterparts not experiencing the same scaling limitations.

Natural diamonds are a finite resource, meaning their limited supply has led to a global natural diamond shortage that has only risen over the past two decades. However, despite the expectation for a steeper increase in price, the rapid rise of lab-grown diamonds has actually caused the cost of natural to dip significantly. If your heart is set on natural, now is a great time to make the leap.

For lab-grown diamonds, their mass-produced nature leads them to hold little to no investment or resell value. To some, this results in questioning if they are worth purchasing in the first place. But perhaps this isn't the right question to ask.

Whichever route you take, the most important value of your chosen stone is bestowed on a personal level. If you have a vision for a larger stone, or one of a more particular cut or colour, and this is only feasible for you on a lab-grown scale, don't be deterred by the lack of 'history' of a new stone. It's there for you to create your own.

Salt & pepper, grey, champagne and other more pastel shades are hard to come by in the realm of lab-grown diamonds. This is due to a combination of the technical precision required to produce them and the lack of incentive to perfect this process, as market demand is far greater for white, colourless diamonds or those with extremely vivid colours. The investment simply isn't worthwhile for most diamond producers. However, if a white or vividly-coloured diamond is what you are after, there is a huge selection to choose from in the lab-grown space, with wider flexibility in cut and size options, particularly on the larger and more unusual end of the scale.

With natural, expect a market of much more nuance. Although coloured diamonds themselves make up only about 0.01% of all mined diamonds, and just one out of 10,000 carats exhibiting a fancy (rich or vivid) colour, the range of options is much broader.

Aside from white diamonds, yellow and champagne are the most accessible in the realm of natural and coloured. Any other shades (pink, blue, green, purple and particular red and orange) are significantly harder to come by and are highly sought after. Be prepared to pay a premium price.

Shop our Curated Diamonds, a collection of unique, ethically-sourced natural diamonds by the incredible Misfit Diamonds:

The environmental considerations between natural vs lab-grown is heavily debated, with both having various factors that should be evaluated equally. It should also be noted that – like with all information we consume – your sources are important. Be wary of where your resources are coming from and question whether this establishment benefits from promoting one ideal over the other.

Natural diamonds can be extracted from the Earth through several methods, with mining remaining the most common and well-known.

The Kimberley Process, an international framework created in 2003, has added much-needed rigour and transparency to the diamond supply chain, making it harder for conflict diamonds (sometimes referred to as ‘blood diamonds’) to be sold. We work only with diamond dealers who are committed to eliminating the trade in conflict diamonds and have an auditable means by which they can prove that all the diamonds they sell comply with the Kimberley Process.

Beyond standard mining practices, we also work closely with artisanal marine diamond company Ocean Diamonds. These gemstones rise through the Earth's crust and deposit themselves in the sea beds, to be hand-retrieved by skilled divers along the West coast of South Africa. With full traceability and low disruption to marine life, these diamonds are arguably the most ethical choice for sourcing new diamonds.

Learn more about Ocean Diamonds below:

We are also proud to offer vintage diamond sourcing for those who desire a natural diamond, without purchasing something new and direct from the supply chain.

From the angles of its physical footprint (land disturbance; biodiversity impact), water usage, and renewability, lab-grown diamonds score higher on the environmental scale than their natural counterparts.

But there is often misinformation that lab-grown diamonds are inherently 'carbon-neutral' or 'impact-free'. Although there are factors that may make them more environmentally-favourable than some natural diamonds, their environmental impact is driven primarily by the large energy consumption needed to replicate the immense heat and pressure required to produce diamonds.

While some factories run on fossil fuel, others run partially or entirely on clean, renewable energy. So where this energy comes from is where your answer lies. These specifics can always be established through contacting the factory from which your diamond comes.

In summary, there is no real distinction on even an anatomical level between natural vs lab-grown diamonds; both being as 'real' as a diamond can get. Where the difference – and ultimately, your decision – lies is in your priorities of the various other factors that come into force. Do you value a stone rich in history? Go natural. Prefer to shop circular? Antique or reclaimed is your answer. Looking for the best possible price? Lab-grown. Or if you simply have a vision for your dream ring that may only be achievable through one end of the market, it's worth being open-minded to achieve your desired goal. There is no one sure-fire answer or guiding principle to choosing the stone that's right for you, and it's in this personal decision that ultimately makes your resulting heirloom all the more special.